Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
